Buenos Aires to Uruguay to Iguazu

21st Oct Dirty rainy day today. Had a good laugh at Fiachra getting his hair cut. A Canadian girl in the hostel was doing cheap cuts and Fiachra decided that his Amazonian mop needed trimming. There was tonnes of hair on the ground and after 30 mins she was still cutting and it looked no shorter. She was eventually doing the finishing touches to her lobb-sided creation and he looked more Mick Hucknal than Phil Lynott. When she finished pulling and tucking little bits here and there he just pushed his hand through it and ruffled it all up again.

Later on the cleaner came into the dorm and started gabbeling spanish to me, I kept answering Si, No and then said Dos por favor (2 please) and she stopped what she was doing and looked at me, realising I hadnt a clue what she was talking about for the last 5 minutes. Everybody roared laughing and the cleaner left.

We went into town that afternoon and walked around Buenos Aires. There are amazing old buildings with fabulous European influenced architecture but the newer stuff seems to be in poor order. The footpaths are all cracked and full of potholes and missing manholes and inspection covers are not unusual. Its a fine city though and we walked around the docks and saw a Argentinan Navy sailing vessel (Frigata Sarimento) that was used to train sailors. It had visited Galway on its 40 laps of the Earth many years ago and I remember Dad bringing us to see it.

22nd Oct Went to a place outside BA today on the train. Its a marshy Delta region known as Delta Tigre. It was set alongside a nice little town and we went on a boat trip to see some of the mansions along the canals etc. It was a nice day out even if the trip was a water bus for the locals.

23rd Oct Checked out of our BA hostel bound for Uruguay. We got a taxi to the ferry port but missed our 11.30am ferry by 10 minutes and had to wait until 7.30pm for the next one. We went into the city for another look around and visited Eva Perons grave. Another sight was this huge metal Tulip that petals mechanically close at night and open in the morning. In the fading light red spotlights light it up. It was obviously some commemeration monument but couldnt understand the Spanish explanation to know either way.

The ferry to Uruguay and to the town of Sacriemento De Colonial took 1 hour and we walked to our hostel. It was a bit of a dump but we had the dorm to ourselves.

24th Oct Walked around SDC and saw the sights. Its a nice little town but had not much to hold the average visitor more than a day. We got a bus to the capital, Montevideo, that afternoon. It seems a typical South American city that has had real glory days in the past but is now crumbling graffitied town with some fine old buildings. The hostel here is a bit of a dump too (allowing for the fact that the country is poor and prices are cheap). Our room stank of Vapona (fly spray) and there were 8 of us in a tiny room. The common area incorporated the reception, bar, TV room and pool table. The music was so loud we couldnt sleep, watch TV or read as all the bulbs were glow in the dark 25W jobs. No point complaining. Our whole dorm checked out the following morning.

25th Oct We hoped to get to a coastal town called Punta Del Este today but everywhere was booked out. It is a place famed for its beaches and celebrity sightings. We decided to go to a town called Tacuembro in the interior. We heard of a ranch that took tourists and showed them how to horseride, round up cattle and sheep etc. They were so remote they had no phone or email so they were only contactable when they came into Tacurembo. We emailed them and headed to Tac in the expectation that we could meet them there.

26th Oct Not to be for the city Slickers. We got an email to say that they were fully booked and we couldnt do it until the 07th November. Didnt realise it was so popular in such a remote spot. We looked around town anyway and got the bus to the Uruguayian / Argentinan border bound for the Iguazu falls. We stopped for the night at a town called Pasandu, it was a nice spot but had to leave on a connecting bus at 8am to a town called Colon on the Argentinian side of the border.

27th Oct Arrived at 10am, its a mad country town with dirt streets outside the centre, but we were not done with our run of unfortunate luck. Our next bus was due to leave at 6.15pm, but the lady behind the counter told us that a highway service station 10km out of town was a popular coach stop and we could get a bus coming from BA the rest of the way. Delighted we got a taxi there and 3 hrs later, nothing. We got a taxi back to town and bought tickets for the 6.15pm bus only to be told that we need to go back to the service station to meet that bus. Jesus. Anyway did that and waited for the bus to arrive. At 6.50pm it made its appearence. It was a fine bus... double decker with big plush seats, videos, waitress serving meals and wine. Along the way the bus stopped to pick up more passengers and I saw the waitress giving the leftovers to street kids, nice of her but a sad sight too.

End of NZ and onto South America

14th Oct Slow day today, bought a lonely planet guidebook for Chile and Argentina and did my blog.

15th Oct Up and out early and got the bus to the airport. I flew to Auckland to catch up with my old travelling buddy (when I was in OZ 12 years ago) Johnnie Charlton. He met me at the airport and he hadnt changed a bit. From our last correspondence he was living in Auckland but had since moved 200km away. It was good though as our 2 hr journey was great to catch up. I met his parents again (same too) and manged to get a bottle of home brew wine from his dad, which was strong but good. I also met Maria, Johnnies wife who was lovely. She suited him down to the ground. She also made a great dinner too, a rarity when one is backpacking.

16th Oct After a glorius sleep in a double bed (rare these days) me and Johnnie went to a rainy Rotorua. Its a hot springs town with a rich Maori history. Thankfully we visited the place 12 years ago so we didnt do any of the activities this time round. had a mighty feed of fish and chips last night, a massive favorite in NZ & wrapped up in newspaper.

17th Oct Had a relaxed day today with a visit to town and a nice coffee shop for cappucino and chocolate cake. fab. Had a bit of lunch later and went back to johnnie house for a few DVDs.

18th Oct Left Johnnies place today and he kindly dropped me to the airport. On the way we went for a great chinese and up to see the views of the Auckland skyline from the extinct volcano crater. I flew to Santiago, Chile but after a few great days catching up with a freind I hadnt seen in the longest time away from a freind. Its funny to observe how our lives have changed so much in that time but as individuals we havent changed much, evolved maybe.
After a 90 minute delay, LA800 departed for Santiago.

18th Oct Its the same date as before but I crossed the International date line which adds a day when one flys east-west. Its such a change arriving into a world of Spanish having come from English speaking countries. I was practising my Spanish on the air hostesses, people in ticket sales etc thanks to my phrasebook. Its slow going though. Had a walk around the neighbourhood (2km from city centre) and went out for a steak with a lad I met in the hostel.

19th Oct Did a self guided walking tour of Santiago with another lad from the hostel. It was a nice enough city but nothing special. I didnt help that everything closes on a Sunday. I went out for dinner on my own tonight and had to do all the ordering myself. I was about a half an hour looking through the phrasebook trying to work out the ingredients in the various pizzas on offer.

20th Oct Left Santiago today and flew to Buenos Aires, Argentina to meet my brother Fiachra. The flight was amazing flying over the Andes and the Sierra de Cordoba which was very scenic. Fiachra met me off the airport bus and we went to the hostel. It was great to see him after 8 months. Had a look around Palermo (the neighbourhood were in) and relaxed for the evening getting to know the other residents.

South island & back round to Christchurch

02nd Oct Up at 7.30am and after breakfast down I went to FJ Glacier hikes office. We were geared up for the glacier hike with hats, gloves, waterproof trousers, jacket & crampons. Crampons are metal devices that have big teeth and are attached to your boots whilst walking in the snow. Off we went, 9 of us to the glacier. It was a 2.6km walk along the river bed to the ice. There were people cutting steps into ice as the steps disappear everynight with ice movement. Its a tough old job, cutting ice with a pick-axe. I'd have imagined a glacier to be a smooth moving block of ice but its full of cracks and crevices, tunnels, holes and all sorts of amazing ice formations. The glacier was about 1 kilometre wide and 10 kilometre long. We walked all day and I was telling our guide that I was doing an article for 'Snow and Ice' magazine. She was very nice to us all day. I met a lad on our hike from my home village in Bearna. His name was Sean Armstrong, a sound lad but id never laid eyes on him before.

03rd Oct Hopped on the bus to Queenstown at 7.30am and visited a few places along the way but it was lashing rain and NZ is a lots to do with views so nothing wild or amazing there. later in the day I arrived in Queenstown, a skiing town, that specialises in all kinds of excitement. I went to this place caled 'Ferburger' a burger joint that sells huge gourmets burgers. My burger was a half pounder with brie cheese, salsa, salad and fine juicy NZ beef. Quality. All was washed down and palet cleansed with a fine goblet of NZ ale.

04th Oct Quiet relaxing day today. Checked out the town and the lay of the land. Booked a car for the Milford sound trip. Bought a rain jacket, went on internet, went out for beers.

05th Oct Hit the road with Jacko (Finland) & Suzie (Ireland) in our rental Toyota Yaris automatic enroute to the famous Milford Sound (MS). There was feck all power in it for 3 adults and their luggage going up the hills and mountain roads, but was a grand little yolk all the same. We stopped along the way to look at a restored steam train which was class. I was allowed in the drivers (engineer) seat and I yanked the horn. The driver was mad with me for doing it and especially when I shouted 'All aboard!' Sure nothing like a bit of craic. We got to MS eventually, and although it was fantastic, the drive there was even more so. A lot of the scenes from the movie 'The Lord of the Rings' was shot in this area and that was great to see. We took a boat tour through the sound and as we were the last boat there were only 6 of us so we all had great views and photo opportunities. We stayed the night in a local backpackers.

06th Oct It was a beautiful morning and we popped back to MS to take a couple more pics. On the way home we stopped at this random cafe in the middle of nowhere. The owner greeted us warmly and was very freindly and all chat. He told us with great enthusiasm about his speciality coffees and his magic recipies... uh oh. Up till that point we took it all with a pinch of salt and thought he was just a bit ecentric. He had us cornered and started to Bilble bash us with quotes from St. John and repentence will set you free only if your born again and all kinds of wacko shite. i was biting my the inside of my mouth trying not to laugh. The others wouldnt look at me as they knew they'd burst. Half hour later we made our excuses and left for Queenstown, he followed us out telling us he had a crazy golf course and would we like a game. Nice man, but mad as a brush.

07th Oct Me and Jacko went to this place on the Hill in Queenstown called 'The Luge'. to get to the Luge you have to pay $25 for the Gondala or walk. We walked. Jacko was in the Finnish army and he flew up. My legs were fecked. Got there anyway and got our luge tickets. the Luge is a go kart track for adults, but the karts have no engines. Its all downhill on a special track with twists and turns. We paid for 2 runs, i won the first and jacko the second. We were flyin it and up on 2 wheels going round the bends, it was mighty craic and we were screaming in competitive excitement the whole way down. I havent laughed that much in an age.

Yesterday I saw an acrobat plane in the air and thought that I d love to do that. i asked the manger in the hostel about it and he said he could organise it. 2 hours later i was taxiing down the Queenstown airport in a 2 seater stunt plane (me at the front and pilot at the back). Once up in the air we did loop the loops, flew upside down, straight up and straight down, pearl harbours... the whole lot. We pulled -3G's and +5G's, whatever that means but im told its a lot. 15 minutes later i was ready to empty my guts. i was delighted i didnt pay the extra to do the 25 minute flight. It was a mad thing to do and certainly once in a lifetime. i never knew that it was a commercially available thing to do and it was unreal. It cost E140 but was worth it.

08th Oct On the Magic bus at 8am enroute to Dunedin. Dunedin is 170km from Queenstown and is a small city. It is the home to the Cadbury Chocolate factory in NZ but its no Willy Wonka. i did the trip and was good craic but nothing too exciting. Got a few bits of free chocolate and took some photos. Not much to do in the town, and watched 3 videos in the hostel that night.

09th Oct Went on a wildlife trip this afternoon and saw giant Royal Albatross (wingspan 3m across), seals and their pups, ywellow eyed penguins & sea lions. We were up close to them in their natural habitat behind a gauze that allowed us to see but not them. The sea lions were huge fat yolks that weighed about 35 stone. It was very interesting.

10th Oct Left Dunedin this morning and on the way out of town we stopped at the 'World steepest street' aka Baldwin street. I climbed to the top and back down and wondered how anything drove up and down it. The road was covered in skid marks. went on to this place called 'Moeraki'. on the beach there were big boulders that looked like dinosaur eggs, mad lookin yolks. After a bite to eat we went onto the town of Oamaru. Just beyond the town I was dropped off to go to the Glenmac farmstay. i was the only one that got off, but didnt mind. I figured i was going to be a cowboy for a couple of days and do some mad redneck stuff. In reality I was bored within minutes. the hostess as not feeling well and not very chatty and her husband the farmer just watched TV. The brochure spoke of horseriding but that wasnt a runner. A neighbouring farmer visited and I asked him if he needed any help. He was in the process of assembling a trailer he bought so I went off with him and did that. Went to bed at 7pm.

11th Oct I went for a walk around the farm and i kept close to the fence so I could find my way back. It was a big farm and lots of hills and mountain and easy to get lost. I walked for 2 hours and saw 2 dead sheep and a dead cow lying in a river. When i got back the farmer wasnt too interested. On another walk that evening I came across another dead sheep which i unwittingly walked right up to and the smell was unbelieveable.

12th Oct Due to leave today so I went for yet another walk in the morning to pass the time. On my way back I saw a sheep lying on its own and in labour. Upon further inspection the lamb was dead and 2/3rds of the way out of his mother. The mother way lying on a hill side and her legs were uphill so she couldnt get back on her feet. I thought about doing the heroic thing and helping her out but felt i could get kicked and maybe attacked if she though I killed her lamb. So off I went down the mountain looking for farmer enthusiasm. I told him what i saw and he pondered for a while and decided to drive up the mountain in his 4wd and sort it out. We did and he took the sheep back to the farm enclosure whith shade and long grass to recover. He reckoned the sheep was there for 3 days and was completely exhausted, it couldnt even stand. i got no recognition for my awareness or help in the matter but i felf proud that I saved the sheeps life.

got picked up by the magic bus and went on to seee a hydroelectric dam and on to our overnight stop in the mountains to a town called 'lake Tekapo'. i booked a trip that night to Mt johns Observatory, a telescope station that allows public access to Government funded telescopes. They were the real McCoy that looked out through dome roofs with the gap for the scope. We saw nebuluses, constelations, stuff that 160 million years away. we were shown Jupiter and its moons, the Southeren cross, the clouds of majellan and real close up views of the moon. It was so bright and i saw craters and land formation etc. Amazing stuff.

13th Oct Left lake tekapo this morning bound for Christchurch. Stopped at a few places along the way. There was a good crowd of us and that night we went out on the town. We went into this Irish bar and upon recieving my drink at the bar, I said 'Slainte' to the bar man. He said'what?' and I explained that that was 'cheers' in Irish and he should know that. He said 'How should i know that, im a kiwi!' i replied 'the same reason you dont know the difference between good staff and average staff'. He didnt like that but the bar burst out laughing. Gobshite, good night though.

07th Oct

The Fiji hee bee gee bee (Part 3) and on to the big NZ

26th Sept Didnt do much today, spent a few hours updating my blog and email etc. Managed to laze about the pool and do my laundry.

27th Sept Got the bus this morning at 7.30am to do a 1 day cruise. We sailed on the 'Seaspray' an 83ft schooner to another archipelago of islands known as the 'Mamanucas'. They are beautiful tropical islands that were chosen as the location for various TV shows including 'Celebrity Love island', the movie "The Blue Lagoon' and 'Castaway' the Tom Hanks shipwreck movie which was filmed on the island of 'Modrik'. I walked around it and through the middle of it but couldnt recognise much but was beautiful all the same. We visited another island and were guests of the chief (who get paid, no doubt) but its all part of their island economy. To visit a tribe, a visiting group must appoint a group (tribe) leader and he must have a spokesman. Nobody wanted to be the spokeman (as they have to make a speech) but Rena , an English girl that was on the Feejee island trip, volunteered me. So there I was again, drinking Kava with the movers and shakers af the island with a population of about 30. I said a few words, threw in a bit of wisdom for good measure and that was that.

28th Sept Up at 5.30am today and was at the airport at 6.15am. My flight to Christchurch (CC) on the south island of New Zealand (NZ) was at 8am. On the plane I got chatting to this older lad and it turned out he was the owner of the resort (Voli voli) that I did my wreck dive in and his son was my dive instructor, small world. We had a great chat about business on the island and I gave him plenty of feedback incl ways he could earn and save based on my experiences in other resorts. He seemed more than happy to hear it (I hope).

I got to Christchurch and walked out the doors of the airport and straight back in again. It was bloody cold. I opened my bag and put on half its contents. I got the bus into the city centre and checked in. Had a brief walk around and it seems like a nice place. I also booked the 'Magic bus' around the South Island which is a hop on hop off arrangement too. I also have to catch a train to meet the bus which involves getting the 'Tranz Alpine Express'. Apparently one of the best train rides in the world through the mountains to the countrys West coast.

29th Sept Had to do a load of jobs today like photo development, post office, buy camping stuff etc. I also did the walking tour of CC including Parks, museum, art Gallery etc. and a bus ride around the city (all free ;-) ) It is a fine, well laid out city. Built by the Brits.... wouldnt you know it.

30th Sept Up at 6.30am (or so I thought) to get the shuttle bus to the train station to the West Coast. Having looked at my watch during breakfast and it was 7.50am, I realised that I had not adjusted my alarm clock for daylight saving. I ran to reception with a mouth full of muesli and I must have been a sight trying to explain myself to the lad behind the counter who was obviously more interested in what was falling out of my mouth that what i was saying. Anyway he rang a taxi and I was rushed to the train station and thankfully, when I arrived at 8.13am, there was a short queue to slow things down slightly. The train left at 8.15am on the dot. Phew.

The train journey lived up to its reputation as we travelled through amazing countryside. I marvelled at the Cantebury plains (huge flat and fertile farming land), snow capped mountains, huge Gorges, viaducts and 3 tunnels (one was 8km long and took 20 minutes to pass through). Originally built for Mining and transport purposes, its now just a tourist thing...but great. It took 4hrs 45 mins to reach Greymouth, the mouth of the Grey river, and the end of the line. I checked in to the YHA hostel and had a look around town. Your wanno in the hostel sold me a ticket for the local brewery (Monteiths) tour and all you can eat BBQ which was good. We tasted 7 types of beer (dont remember what the last 2 tasted like ;-) ) Good craic though.

01st Oct Officially the 1st day of the NZ summer but it was cold and was raining on and off. (NZ is like Ireland in lots of ways) Headed off on the magic bus this morning and stopped at a town called 'Hokitiki' where the make crafts from 'Jade' , a local precious stone and at a town called 'Ross' where they still mine for Gold. A few bought a 15 minute panning for Gold session and actually got a few flecks. Moved on to tonights destination, a town called 'Franz Josef' (FJ) here in FJ is the FJ Glacier. One of only 3 moving glaciers in the world. I booked a full day hike tomorrow with tour guide. Hope the weather will be nice.