Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Broome and on down to Perth

16 Aug Met up with a buddy of mine that I met in Ko Samui today. We called to her flat for afternoon Tea and was great to catch up with her. We had been good freinds at the detox. Later in the afternoon I went to a crocodile farm and saw huge crocs and watched the tour guide feed them chicken carcasas. He threw hard plastic balls in their pen and instinctivly they jumped out of the water and crushed them like grapes, v. entertaining. I went down to the beach with Corina and her freind to watch the sunset and enjoyed a cheese and wine snack. Her freind had a dog and I spent lots of time and effort throwing the ball for him, felt like home. Fair play to Corina, she invited us to her place for dinner (me and 2 freinds from the hostel) and lots of good aussie red wine.

17 Aug Met up with a couple of Irish girls (Trish and Ruth) today as they were interested in travelling with me in the camper to Broome. We disscussed the route and the time etc and we were all in agreement which was great. we decided to leave the following day. I went to the beach again to see the 'ships of the desert' a camel train that passes along Cable beach every day, About 20 camels in all. After that Corina joined us for another fine sunset and had a few beers whilst enjoying the spectacle.

18 Aug Up at 7am today and met Ruth and Trish at 8am. We went shopping for a load of water and groceries for our 7 day journey. Eventually we hit the road and drove all day through the nothingness to a mining town called Port Headland (PH). There was a spectacle to be seen there called the 'Staircase to the Moon'. This involved a full moon and a low tide co-inciding to creat a moonshine glimmer over the wet sand that created an illusion of a illuminated staircase to the moon. It was amazing but no photo would do it justice. We went into town to look for accommodation but everything seemed to be closed. We found this backpackers hostel listed in the lonely planet and went inside. We met this man in the hallway and he asked us what we were doing, i replied that i was looking for the reception. He said that this was a private house and we were to leave immediately. We apologised profusely and the girls turned on the Irish charm and he came round. as we were leaving he acknowledged that it was a hostel but had since become a private residence. We decided to leave PH and drive way out of town as everything was full of miners. We drove in the dark dodging Kangaroos and cattle until we found a quiet layby and decided to stop there for the night. The girls were too afraid to set up the tent and we all slept in the back of the van. Good craic and very cosy.

19 Aug Hit the road at 6.30am and headed south towards karinji National Park. I left the girls asleep in the back of the van and I drove about 2 hours to the nearest roadhouse (petrol station / truck stops) where we showered and changed. later in the morning we arrived in Karinji and drove around to the Gorges along dirt roads. Thank god the vehicle was not mine as they were dreadful. Looked a few Gorges and did a few short walks. We camped at the national park campground and made dinner in our little camper kitchen. To be fair, the girls cooked and did it well. I ate like a lord and enjoyed ice cold beers. lovely. That night we finished washing up etc and put our rubbish in a bag. I left it at the back door of the van so it would be smelly while we slept. The girls went off to the toilets and i was putting stuff in the side door. I heard a rustle and went to the back of the van to see what it was. I saw nothing and the rubbish bag was gone. The girls arrived back and i told them to get ready quick and get into the van. It was dark at this stage and I got my LED flashlight out and start shining it into the Bush. There were dozen of illuminated eyes watching us, I started throwing handfuls stones at them and kept shining the light at them. They were wild dingos, and the girls had dropped some raw meat during their dinner preparation. Although dingoes are supposed to be harmless, a starving wild animal is never to be trusted. We got into the van and the girls passed on the tent option for the 2nd night. The following morning paw prints were all around the van. It was a good laugh though.

20 Aug Headed away from Karijini towards a town called 'Tom Price'. We shopped and showered there and headed towards Exmouth 500km away. We didnt expect to make it that day but wanted to chew up as many kilometeres as possible. We fueled up at this roadhouse and it was starting to get dark. We needed to go a 100 km more and didnt like the dark driving. As luck would have it a road train passed and we tore after it. We sat behind it all the way as it bulldozed its way through the wildlife and we got to our campsite. Lady luck was on our side as we pulled in a couple of South African girls were nursing a lovely fire and BB ing kangaroo. We swopped beer for Kangaroo and heat (cold in the desert a night) and had a great evening.

21 Aug With the 2 girls fast asleep again I drove to Exmouth (Ex). Ex is a quiet spot and had a night lighthouse and beach. We bought some supplies and headed to Coral Bay (CB). Got to CB late and went to bed.

22 Aug We all booked on a quad biking tour which was mighty craic. They were new 500cc quads and we drove over the sands dunes and track in the area. We did some real challenging stuff which was great and a surprise. We saw turtles, beautiful white beaches with turquoise waters. We left about 4pm and headed to Shark bay / Monkey Mia (MM) 375km away. I drove till 2am (girls asleep in the back) until 2am. We needed to get there that day as there are wild Dolphins that come to shore at MM at 7.45am. We parked in the visitors centre carpark and slept.

23 Aug Got up at 7am and went down to the beach to watch the Dolphin spectacle. It was amazing as they came up and looked at everybody with direct eye contact and played in the water as they waited to be fed. I was right up beside them in the water (no touching allowed) and was a great feeling. We went for breakfast in a local cafe and the seagulls would land in on a table and eat the scraps before they were cleared. Amazing. Along the shore in MM there are lots of Pelicans. Wierd looking creatures that seemed to enoyed being photographed. They would open, then close their mouth. Then they would turn left then right. neck up, neck down. It was hilarious. They mangement feed the Pelicans too as they would muscle in on the dolphins otherwise and that appartently would stop the dolphins coming in.
Later that day we headed towards Kilbarri National Park (KB NP) and were stopped by the police on the way. They randomly turned around and chased after us. We were completely legal other than having 3 passengers in a 2 seater campervan. They let us off and off we went. The 2 girls are quiet good looking and charm their way in and out of evrything. Great. saw Seashell beach (only sea shells on the beach) and stromolites, an oxegen producing organism that existed 160 million years ago. That night we didnt get as far as Kilbarri but stopped at a campsite, lit a bonfire and ate and drank. Bliss.

24 Aug Hit the road at 7am and got to KB NP, checked out a few Gorges and enjoyed driving on the dirt roads (just sand, no tar) Got to a town called Geraldton that evening and Ruth met a Cork lad that she knew. He was working there as a blocklayer so we ended up staying at their house that night and watched the Cork / Kerry semi final.

25 Aug Headed towards perth on the last leg of the Broome - Perth journey. we stopped to see the Pinnacles. A strange landscape with tower like mounds popping out of the ground. Like a huge bed of nails. Drove on to Perth and arrived late afternoon. I spent the evning going around to all the hostels putting up notices offering a lift share to Melbourne. After al that, we got to Ruths freinds house and I slept in he van on their driveway.

26 Aug Washed the van inside and out this morning. I met up with Brian Fahy, a freind from Galway who moved out here 9 months ago. He brought me around to see the sights. I was telling him that the radio didnt work in the van and he told me that the gargae he worked for was a mitsubishi garage and they fixed it for me. great. I got a call from 2 girls (Sally and Sonia) today wanting a lift to Adelaide, i was going to give it a miss as id been there already but what the hell, it was on the way and near Melbourne. We will leave the day after tomorrow. I met up with another girl I met at the detox called Lyndall. She made me a big dinner and met up with her sister and niece who were at the detox too. great night.

27 Aug went out to Scarborough beach today andHilary harbour. Beautiful seaside towns in the Perth suburbs. Had a nice lunch and looked at fabulous boats in the jettys. Meeting Brian tonight and staying the night. Heading south tomorrow on my 7 day journeyto Adelaide.

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Back in Oz, Darwin to Broome

11 aug Touched down in Darwin at 4am this morning. I was amazed at the levels of security in the airport and I was questioned twice before leaving arrivals not to mention the scanners & sniffer dogs. Finally got onto the shuttle bus and headed off into town. The driver dropped me off at Frogshollow backpackers, where I stayed in 1995. Nothing had changed in that time and the place had turned into a bit of a dive. It was 5.30am and i headed off up the town to see if I could find something a bit nicer. I stopped at a place and checked in. I went up to the dorm and as I shuffled in I was waking people so I decided just to dump the bag on the bed and take a look at the town. Darwin has grown a little but is still the same. It seemed busier when I was there before but everything is seasonal here. as id seen darwin there was not much point in hanging around so the day was spend looking at tours, cars and campervans for sale and rent. I finally decided on renting a small campervan for 30 days and drop it off at my exit point in Sydney, am collecting it tomorrow morning. A girl in the hostel from Northern Ireland has decided to go as far as Broome with me which is good for company and sharing the petrol. Picked myself up an Australian Mobile number too +61.415.283.532

12 Aug Picked up the campervan today and after signing a heap of conditions, off I went. picked up Karen and set off on our 300km Journey south to the town of Katherine. After seeing a few bits and pieces along the way we went a further 32km to katherine Gorge National pk. Its a stunning place and id been there before but worth seeing again. Went on a hike to the top of the gorge and went out for dinner that night and had Barramundi and chips, a local seafood delight. Delicious. Stayed in the adjoining campsite that night and met some nice people.

13 Aug We headed off today on our 500km journey to Kununurra, the town thats in the Kimberly mountain range. We crossed through the border in Western Australia and had our fresh food confiscated (1 orange) due to quarantine arrangements. As we were late leaving Katherine, it was getting dark as we arrived in WA and due to the danger of travelling at night with animals on the roads, i asked a Greyhound bus driver if we could drive in behind him on the way to Kununurra. All the way and no stops, perfect. The hostel was full so I slept in the van.

14 Aug I was woken by the hostel owner at 6am wondering what I was doing (as if he didnt know). I explained that karen was in the hostel and that they'd no room for me. I think he was OK once he gotten something out of us. The Bungle Bunle tours was not available that day and we would have to wait around for another day. we decided to press on and take in another national park nearby. On the road again we drove for 8 hours on our journey towards Broome. We came across this Govt. run campsite just off the highway and decided to check that out. It was full of campers and was a great spot. I saw crocodiles on the shore of nearby river and walked along a dried up riverbed. Cooked my first dinner in the camper and was quiet good (pasta and tomato sauce with cheese).

15 Aug headed off this morning at 7.30am for our final 500km journey to Broome. It was great to get away early as its much easier to drive in cooler tempertures. Stopped off at a roadhouse down the way for shower and some food. Got to Broome at 4.30pm and had a look around the town and the beaches. Broome has seen somewhat of an economic explosion as nearby mines and putting big money into peoples pockets. Trck drivers in the mines are making up to $3000 per week.

Singapore Sling

08th Aug Arrived in Singapore (SP) and after the usual immigration rig ma role arrived without any hassle. Singapore on first impressions is a nice clean city and I liked it straight away. I checked into my hostel which was 2 km away from the bus stop. It looked near on the map, so I decided to walk it. With 20 kilos on my back it was tough going. I got to the hostel and a sign said 'sorry full' I went in anyway and was told that a group of 8 had just cancelled and there was a bed in a dorm room available. I took the room and got a cold reminder of life in dorms. It was twice the price for a bed in a dorm in Singapore than a double ensuite room in Thailand. After settling in, my first job was to call an old buddy of mine, james. He was a lad I met in the Detox in Ko Samui from SP and he had invited me to call him when I arrived in town. I met him that night and he had just returned from Malaysia too (he was on business though) he brought me and a work colleague of his to this lovely restaurant called 'Jumbo'. It is a seaside seafood restaurant and James ordered a load of stuff and we tucked in. It was delicious although he said they are often better. After that I saw into my first Sing high rise apartment when we dropped off his colleague and had a grand tour of her apartment. James dropped me back to the hostel.

09th Aug Met James at 10am today for a tour of some of the sights. First we went to see his new house which is not yet complete. It was built over 3 floors, solar heating, all ensuite etc. He had a swimming pool and all kinds of modern gadjets. It was very nice and I attempted a valuation. I reckoned $1.9million sing dollars ($2 = E1)but he told me he paid that for the site! we headed off in his nice new Mercedes and saw the opera house, the dockside, new and old colonial SP. No trip to SP would be complete without a visit to Raffles hotel (Raffles founded SP) and the long bar where the cocktail, the Singapore sling was invented. we had one of those each and lunch. James was meeting a freind for Golf so I headed off around town to buy new hiking shoes, which I found and were way cheaper than Ireland. I went to the National Museum, fort Canning park , where the British decided to evacuate SP due to a Japanese invasion. Home then for a shower and a change and meet James and his family for dinner. I had not dressed up in a long time for dinner and trying to find suitable attire for a posh SP dinner was not an easy task. Anyway, had a great time and a super chinese/sing meal and met his wife and 2 children. The meal was a huge array of everything and everyone just took what they wanted. James kindly dropped me home again.

10 Aug Went off to see a few final sights today and shopped for a few final bits and pieces. James wanted to bring me to one more place, an exclusive island off SP known as Sentosa island. SP's super rich live here and $5m is the norm for a house. We had lunch and James brought me out to the airport. Singapore is a beautiful city and was made so much more enjoyable by having a freind there to show me around and give me a real experience. James refused to let me pay for anything and met me everyday, for which I am very grateful.

Thursday, August 7, 2008

Malaysia


01 Aug Arrived in Kuala Lumpur (KL) at a different airport than I had expected. It wasnt a problem except for the fact that i was running around like a headless chicken looking for the train station and there wasnt one. Eventually got a shuttle bus into town, that took an hour and I got chatting to a Malay woman that was travelling from Borneo to KL and was familiar with KL. She was very helpful and sorted me out at the train station (which was huge). Eventually got to my guesthouse and booked their last room (thank god).
I headed out that night and couldnt believe how advanced and cosmopolitan the city was. Fabulous buildings, monorails, subways, massive shopping centres and monuments. I visited the Petronas towers, the highest twin towers in the world. They are the HQ to 'Petronas' a massive Asian oil company and the broadcasting HQ of Aljazeera TV

02 Aug Decided to go and see a few more sights today. Its amazing how futuristic the city is but makes no provision for cyclists and little or none for pedestrians. After setting off on foot and walking on the hardshoulder of flyovers and dual carriageways I got to the old KL train station. It was refurbished about 10 years ago but has since been superceeded by a huge new station. The Old one, built by the British, is like something out of the movies with multiple platforms and half barrell roof and beautifully tiled with little cafes alongside.
After that I visited this huge big Mosque (Masjid Negram). I marched up the steps through the barrier and halfway up the stairs I thought I was under attack from the Mudjahadeen. Apparently I should have covered my legs and taken off my shoes. I was marched back down the stairs and wrapped in a purple robe (worn by flesh exposing non Muslims) and off I went in for a look. It was a fine place but I was gone in 10 minutes.
I went then to the National Planetarium which had been marketed well but was overrun with Kids and was shite. The National Museum after that, crap. I went to KL tower with the revolving restaurant. I tried to find my way in but for all the roads, I couldnt. At 35C ones determination runs thin very quickly. Went back to the air conditioned comfort of the Petronas towers and had dinner in Burger King and dessert in Dunkin Donuts (How Malay of me)
I took the subway back to the guesthouse and booked my 3 day trek to Jalaweng Jungle. I had a walk thru the night markets and went to bed.

Aug 03 Went to the KL tower today, the 4th tallest structure in the world. Its always a great way to see a city and to get one bearings. Back to bed for a few hours and boarded the night train for Dabong at 8.30pm. Aka the 'Jungle train' took 12 hours to get to Dabong. Its a remote outpost and we were the only ones that got off. There was no platform so we had to jump onto the ground from the train (Another first).

Aug 04
There were 4 of us in the group (Alex, Stuart & Laura) and we were met by Yeo. After breakfast at a local eatery (hot curry) we met 'Uncle' and went on a short cave trek (3 hours). It was amazing and saw huge caves, wierd spiders and other critters. We headed for lunch and after that hiked to our base camp in the mountains. After been shown our huts we went swimmimg and the guides brought us up the rock face and sent us sliding down on our bums into the water. Never been down a rock waterslide before and it was terrifying but exhilarating once it was done. The food on base camp was good but the accommodation was shocking and the worst ive stayed in. On the first night we had to change huts as it was over run by Ants and there was rat shit all over the bed. I thought they were bits of foilage and went to wipe them away but disintegrated in my hand s and the smell was desperate. We moved to another and the smell of rat piss (one can only assume) off the mattress was stifeling. There were no mossie nets and was open to any unwanted native visitors if they wished to pay you a visit during the night. I slept on the piss ridden matress and was very humbling to say the least. It lashed rain too.

Aug 05 Was going to get up for the sunrise over the waterfall but was pissing rain. It cleared up later in the morning and after breakfast we went on another trek. It was up to the top of the waterfall where we went swimming. I was bursting to go to the toilet so, rather than go into the Jungle and let the less savoury of its inhabitants bite me where the sun dont shine I decided that I should go where the fish go. I found a nice spot behind a boulder with fast moving water (very imporant) and removed my swimming togs to complete the job. After watching the evidence float by and quickly disappear on its waterworld adventure and a quick clean around I appeared into view of the group. I joined them for lunch & made sure I shook hands with them all. I took a snooze after lunch on the rocks and was woken by a massive crack of thunder. I jumped up and started packing everything into my bag. The heavens opened up and it torrentially rained on us as we walked back to base camp. We had to go quickly as the water levels rise fast and we needed to cross the river to the camp. After a few failed attempts we found a spot to cross. I was drowned wet. Slept in a tent tonight.

Aug 06 Our last day in the Jungle and we went to see the potholes, an unusual rock formation where the rock bed looks like a piece of cheese. We had great craic jumping into the potholes and dispearring underneath the water and sliding under the waterfall where it was dry and you could look at it falling. We were rained on again on our way back to base. It dryed up again and with a couple of hours break between base camp and the final descent to Dabong we manged to dry our clothes inthe sun. During the way down, i found myself slipping a lot as my shoes were fairly worn down on the soles. I gave them to our guide when we got down and he was delighted. He reckoned he would have to spend a months wages to buy that same pair. The worn soles didnt bother him.
My train was due to depart at 8.30pm and I reached the station at 2.30pm. After a long lunch Uncle invited me go on a boat trip up the river. Off we went and got soaked again, One could only laugh. He brought me back to his house to shower and change (very decent of him). We got on very well and he brought me arond to all these eateries and introduced me to the locals which was very enjoyable. I was treated to great food and coffee, the train arrived at 9.15pm and I slept most of the 12 hours to KL on the nicest bed i had in 3 days.

Aug 07 arrived in KL and checked into the same guesthouse for 1 more night. I booked my bus ticket to Singapore (SP) for tomorrow, leaving at 10 am and due in SP about 4pm. I checked out a few big shopping centres too as I wanted to buy new trekking shoes but they dont go for them much in these parts. The shopping centres were amazing though, fabulously finished and built on a mammoth scale, needs to be seen to be appreciated. Also went for a spin on the MRT a monorail that travels 30 foot above the city streets, which was cool.

Friday, August 1, 2008

Thailands North and the end of a short era

25 July Got up at 8am this morning to meet up with my baby sister, Caoimhe. I understood that she was staying in a nearby guesthouse but after finding my way there she hadnt even checked in but was due shortly. I started socialising on her behalf with the other tour guests and her ladyship arrived 90 mins later. After about an hour we parted ways and I went to check out the town and the tourist office. I went to the night markets and they were very good, if one wanted to decorate a house or a thai restaurant they could buy everything here. I decided to go to a town in the mountains called Pai tomorrow.

26 July Got booked on my minibus this morning for the 1.30pm bus to Pai. I decided with a few spare hours in CM that I'd have a free dental check up. I was pretty much aware what dental work I needed from a visit i paid to a Galway dentist last year. The job was going to cost E9000 in Ireland and after an inspection and consultation here I was quoted E2000. The job involved 5 crowns with a gold structure (least toxic) 4 fillings that involved removing the existing metal fillings and white ones put in their place , 2 porcelain onlays and other bits and pieces like x-rays and cleaning. The clinic was far more swish than back home and they had all kinds of dicky didos to minimise the trauma.
Got on the bus to Pai. It was a Hiace minibus which was fast compared to the old smokers that ply the route usually. It was E3.60 for the 3 hour run compared to 80 cent on the old yolk that took 5 hours. Feck it, whats money for. The scenery was amazing driving through the mountains and i believe there are 742 bends in the road between Pai and CM. Its was a great little hippy town and Ive organised a motorbike to go further into the mountains tomorrow.

27 July I rented that bike today and took off into the wilderness. the weather was a little dodgy but it cleared up and was glorius in the later morning. As I trundeled through the tree lined roads, and relatively traffic free, i found that I was singing away to myself. I saw young boys on the side of the road laughing at me so I felt my rendition of the Eagles 'Take it easy' was to be toned down a tad or two. I arrived at my destination Mae Hung Sung 120km away and had a look around. I was prepared to stay the night but the atmosphere in Pai was way better and I though I'd head back there for the night. The weather started to turn again and 120 km each way on a small honda 50 type scooter is a long long way on mountain roads. The rain started pouring down, monsoon style, and i felt that i was having dejavu. After 3.5 hours of hairpin mountain roads i got back to Pai. Pai has some great quirks and one of them was the total acceptance of a practice whereby one can go into a shop, buy beer out of the fridge and drink it on their picnic tables outside. Loads of people gather there drinking cheap shop beer and the pubs are left wondering where the punters are. At 60 cent for Singa or Tiger beer (good stuff) its easy to know why. The tables outside the shops are concrete with tiled surfaces. The tiling incorporates a mosaic of a chess board so playing draughts with bottle tops is a serious sport. The Tigers v the Singas. Going back to CM tomorrow and going to get a few fillings done.

28 July Didnt do much today other than take the 3 hour bus ride back to CM and I went to the dentist and made an appointment to get 2 fillings done tomorrow and 2 the following day. I also booked my flight to Kuala Lumpur.

29 July 9am went in the doors of the dentist and had 2 amalgam fillings removed and 2 white plastic composite fillings pit in their place. It took 2 hours and it wasnt entirely an enjoyable experience although no fault of the dentist. E60 later the 1st batch were done and same again tomorrow. I bought 2 Lonely planet guidebooks in the secondhand shop today, one for Mayalsia/Singapore and the other for Australia. Cant say i have the same enthusiasm for Malaysia as I do Australia, but we'll see.

30 July Had 2 more fillings today. I finished my first ever fictional book today and must say I enjoyed it. My mother has been on at me for years to start reading them but until now I resited in favour of factual stuff. I met up with 2 girls that I had met in Laos tonight. They convinced me to do a cookery course the following day which I agreed to. Should be interesting.

31st July Met up with Vicky and Maria for breakfast before we were whisked away to the cookery school via the local market to pick up supplies. I must admit i rather enjoyed it and took to the chopping and sizzeling quiet well. I made Pad Thai, a traditional noodle dish and Spring rolls. Also made Massaman curry and black rice pudding. There were 6 choices of dish out of 18 options so I picked my favorites although I hadn't a clue what black rice pudding was. The great thing was that you got the opportunity to taste all the others dishes too. That evening I traded in my Jeffrey Archer 'As the crow flies' book for E1 in the bookshop for a John Grisham novel 'The Broker' that i paid E3 for less the trade in. Havent started it yet but looks good. Tonight was my last night in Thailand so a good crowd from the cookery course, the boat cruise and a crowd from a trek the 2 girls were on came along and a few other straggglers. Backpackers will use any excuse to go out on the piss. Had a great night and felt sad to be leaving Thailand and a good few freinds that wont be going my direction for the rest of their travels. Thailand had good memories with Stephen and francis from home were out here, new freinds, great food and a very positive atmosphere in general. as a whole it was my favorite country so far, but its early days yet.

01st August Was collected by Tuk Tuk thismorning and went to CM airport to get my flight to KL. After the usual rig ma role , I boarded AK 897 bound for Malyasia.