25 June Took the morning bus to Dalat from HCMC today. Its a 7 Hour bus Journey covering only 300 Klms. Dalat is a small French town in the Central Highlands and is slow going on Mountain roads. I met a couple of English Girls ( Sarah & Jo) on the bus and they are finishing the same trip as me but in reverse. Needless to say they were full of useful information. We all checked into the same guesthouse and went out for a nice feed and some Dalat red wine.
26 June We all went off for the day on a tour of the area and saw a silk factory where everything was done from the silkworm to the shop selling their stuff. Women in the factory were paid $3 US per day and worked 7 days per week. The noise and smell were terrible. Apparrently the men dont work there as they cant stick it. We also saw coffee, tea, and rice plantations. We visited a hill side tribe and sampled their rice wine (Poitin) strong but not bad. That night the girls got the night bus to HCMC and im off to Na Trang tomorrow at 7am.
27 June Got the 7am bus this morning to Na trang. Its a popular seaside resort with Vietnamese and foreigners with super beaches, islands and overlooking the South China Sea. On the way there we stopped at a roadside diner where Stir fried Vegetables with beef is available but without the beef is not, very strange. Im told that this is not uncommon and if its not on the menu, you dont get it. Met a few people on the bus, a kiwi, an english girl and a retired American couple. Had good craic with them but the driver left the English girl behind at the half way stop. We didnt notice until we reached our destination when the driver dumped all the bags on the footpath and didnt seem to mind that he had left her behind and that he had left her bag on the side of the road. We protested and he finally agreed to bring it to their office in the town. Thankfully we met her on the street later that night and all was well. Going to rent a motorbike tomorrow and see the sights.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Over the Border and to on Ho Chi Minh (Saigon)
21 June I took a Tuk tuk today from Kampot, Cambodia to the border town of Ha Tien. On mostly bad roads the 45 km journey took 90 mins (A hell of a journey on a Tuk) . Its a small quiet and remote border crossing that has only few westerners crossing it. Anyway it was near kampot and what the hell. Close to the border i was transferred to a motorcycle taxi as they can go over the border hasslefree and bring me all the way to the bus station on the Vietnamese side. After a quick passport show and a form filled, I was in Vietnam. It was a good feeling to be in the country and was looking forward to the road ahead. I got to Hat Tien bus station and the touts ushered me over to the kiosk to buy my bus ticket to Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). It was 12.15pm and was told that the next bus was at 8pm. Resigned to a long wait around in a nothing town i agreed and asked the price in US Dollars. At an official exchange rate of 18,000 dong to the dollar, i was offered 10,000. Refusing to budge on the rate (she reckoned I'd no choice) I told her that she could rub her arse with the ticket and walked off not knowing what i was going to do. The touts were gabbeling and jumping up and down realising their commission was going down the drain. I spotted another kiosk across the road and they had a minibus going via another town close by and on to HCMC. It was leaving in 40 minutes and was $13 for the 10 hour trip. Sold at 15,000 dong to my dollars. I was gleefully waving my ticket across the road at your wanno in the other office and i felt like Charlie Bucket in Willy Wonka with my Golden ticket.
With my 30 minutes to spare i popped into the 3rd world 'Lord of the Flies' restaurant next door for a feed. Realising that meat was not a clever option i asked in my best Lonely Planet Vietnamese for 'Hello, Rice I am a vegetable'. With sniggers all around I got a blob of rice and 5 slices of Cucumber. It filled a gap. 30 cent later (paid in Cambodian currency), i decided to empty the bladder and went over to the toilet block, it was 6 cent entry fee and i had no dongs and they had no change of a dollar. The inbred wanker would not to let me in. Despite my pleas and offers of cambodian money he refused. I went round the back and went in the bushes. He came out shouting and roaring Vietnamese like I was some kind of Vietcong prisoner. I was in the middle of my powerhose performance and his music was falling on deaf ears. It could of got nasty only for a group of observing bus drivers sitting nearby found the unfolding situation hilarious. I was done and fecked off.
I got on my nice air conditioned minibus with 3 seats to myself and proceeded via Rach Gia to HCMC. They drive like lunatics and there are no safety belts. My head was hopping off the ceiling. We got to Rach Gia and my next bus left 5 minutes later. What luck. 8 hours later we stopped at a roadside diner. it was a real locals spot and there was no english menus, speakers or any food on display that i could point at. The lonely planet dictionary had no words that matched the menu. Anything that the others were eating didnt look at all appetitising (it looked like fish bait and smelled worse) so i decided to go hungry and wait to get to HCMC.
Arriving at the bus station late at night i got a motorbike taxi to the hotel. Helmets are compulsory in Vietnam so I was given one to wear. I might of well had something from a tubberware party for all the use it was with a bit of string to hold it on. There are 4 million motorbikes in HCMC and they were all out to greet me. No regard was paid to traffic lights, roundabouts or right of way. It was the ultimate lunacy and being no stranger to driving motorbikes I wouldnt get out there in a fit. Arriving at my hotel via a unrequested alternative I paid the driver too much (unfamiliar with the currency) but it was only a dollar. He took it without a flinch. I checked into my nice but windowless room and had a feed and a couple ice cold beers. Glorious and one hell of a day.
22-24 June I did 3 trips while in HCMC. The city tour, Cu Chi tunnels & Mekong delta. The Vietnam war (called the American War here) is very much part of the tourist trail and the Viet cong were ingenious and equally ruthless as the Yanks. So much seen and worth a visit.
I met my sister Caoimhe and joined her tour for dinner and drinks and had a great evening. Shes heading South and on to Cambodia and Im heading North so it was a fly by rendezvous but good to see her. Off to Dalat tomorrow. It is a Old french town in the mountains and is supposed to be beautiful.
With my 30 minutes to spare i popped into the 3rd world 'Lord of the Flies' restaurant next door for a feed. Realising that meat was not a clever option i asked in my best Lonely Planet Vietnamese for 'Hello, Rice I am a vegetable'. With sniggers all around I got a blob of rice and 5 slices of Cucumber. It filled a gap. 30 cent later (paid in Cambodian currency), i decided to empty the bladder and went over to the toilet block, it was 6 cent entry fee and i had no dongs and they had no change of a dollar. The inbred wanker would not to let me in. Despite my pleas and offers of cambodian money he refused. I went round the back and went in the bushes. He came out shouting and roaring Vietnamese like I was some kind of Vietcong prisoner. I was in the middle of my powerhose performance and his music was falling on deaf ears. It could of got nasty only for a group of observing bus drivers sitting nearby found the unfolding situation hilarious. I was done and fecked off.
I got on my nice air conditioned minibus with 3 seats to myself and proceeded via Rach Gia to HCMC. They drive like lunatics and there are no safety belts. My head was hopping off the ceiling. We got to Rach Gia and my next bus left 5 minutes later. What luck. 8 hours later we stopped at a roadside diner. it was a real locals spot and there was no english menus, speakers or any food on display that i could point at. The lonely planet dictionary had no words that matched the menu. Anything that the others were eating didnt look at all appetitising (it looked like fish bait and smelled worse) so i decided to go hungry and wait to get to HCMC.
Arriving at the bus station late at night i got a motorbike taxi to the hotel. Helmets are compulsory in Vietnam so I was given one to wear. I might of well had something from a tubberware party for all the use it was with a bit of string to hold it on. There are 4 million motorbikes in HCMC and they were all out to greet me. No regard was paid to traffic lights, roundabouts or right of way. It was the ultimate lunacy and being no stranger to driving motorbikes I wouldnt get out there in a fit. Arriving at my hotel via a unrequested alternative I paid the driver too much (unfamiliar with the currency) but it was only a dollar. He took it without a flinch. I checked into my nice but windowless room and had a feed and a couple ice cold beers. Glorious and one hell of a day.
22-24 June I did 3 trips while in HCMC. The city tour, Cu Chi tunnels & Mekong delta. The Vietnam war (called the American War here) is very much part of the tourist trail and the Viet cong were ingenious and equally ruthless as the Yanks. So much seen and worth a visit.
I met my sister Caoimhe and joined her tour for dinner and drinks and had a great evening. Shes heading South and on to Cambodia and Im heading North so it was a fly by rendezvous but good to see her. Off to Dalat tomorrow. It is a Old french town in the mountains and is supposed to be beautiful.
Sunday, June 22, 2008
More Cambodia and Arrival in Vietnam
13 June Arrived in Sihanoukville today to the usual reception of overly keen Tuk - tuk & motorcycle taxi drivers. It was pouring rain (monsoon season is coming up) but negotiations were going to take the required time. The Tuk tuk drivers love the rain, everyone is in a panic to get going and usually get their price. There were 4 of us and $2 US was the budget whilst the asking price was $5. $3 was finally agreed and off we went. 2 went to another hotel and I and another German girl went to our choice @ $5 per night for an ensuite room each. It was a good place and quickly got chatting to lots of people at the bar. There was a movie and then the Euro cup finals and coupled with a few beers had no problem sleeping soundly that night.
14 June Was raining again today but decided to rent a scooter and took off around town with Sara, the German girl in tow. S'ville is a small town of 77,000 but low and behold Sara spotted a girl she used to live with walking alongside these 2 americans. We swung 'round and ended up Dining and having a few drinks with them. Small world. Later that day I went to the 'Seeing hands' massage parlour. All the messeuse are blind and after their wages the money goes to help the blind in the region. I would love to say I enjoyed it but this blind lad had me in more pain than i can remember.
15 June Sara went to Bangkok and i rented the bike for another day and went off to a place called 'Stung Hau'. (The place was named after an American called 'Hau' in search of some value...... sorry bad joke) Its a fishing village that, according to the Lonely Planet, is the Home to the remains of the Communist Cambodian Navy fleet. Not being able to find the fleet and my Cambodian (Khmer) as rusty as the auld boats, i spotted a few white lads in a little eatery. I pulled the bike over, and with my overly small helmet sitting on my head like I was in the Vatican, i asked them if they spoke English, one of them replied "Nah, mate...we speak Australian!!!" needless to say after beers and food i was informed that "they towed away those ol' wrecks years ago". It was a great afternoon anyway. One of those guys owned a pub in town and invited me to join them that evening. i did and had another feed and a few beers. I got back to the guesthouse and another resident dragged me out again for a few beers and some pool. I had 7 beers that night and was pissed.
16 June With the head hanging off me I went off on the bike again to Ream national park, Nothing much to see. That evening With a couple of lads from the Guesthouse the 3 of us piled onto the bike (3 on a bike and sometimes more is quiet normal in these parts). We went down to the beach and went to one of the many beach bars. When we got back the bike wouldn't start. we pushed it up the road to a street lamp to see if we could get it going. A group of young lads gathered around to see if they could help. I let them at it and they said that the spark plug cap was missing. They happened to have one ( wonders will never cease) and fitted it. The bike started and i gave the lad $2. He wanted $8 and told him 'no' he took it out again and we started pushing the bike up the road. They came after us again and said $5. We agreed and when he had it done, i told him if he knows who did this, to tell them that 'today was a good day for you but a bad day for Cambodia'. He got the message.
19 June After a few days relaxing and doing nothing much I headed for a small town called Kampot. Famous for its Pepper and not much else, i continued on to a small seaside village called Kep 24 km away. I rented a bike and had a look around. During the French occupation of Cambodia, Kep was a popular spot with the french elite and the place was full of beautiful architecturally designed villas. Today they are in ruin but can still be viewed and they had the most fabulous beach front sites. Famous for its seafood, i dined at this restarant built on short stilts over the seashore. The tide ebbed and flowed underneath the floor & the food was devine.
20 June I stayed 1 night in Kep as loud nearby music and bed bugs kept me awake most of the night. I went back to Kampot and rented another bike and went off to see Bokor hill station, another french outpost, but it was closed due to road works.
21 June I headed off to the Vietnam border in Ha Tien by Tuk Tuk. The story to follow next post.
14 June Was raining again today but decided to rent a scooter and took off around town with Sara, the German girl in tow. S'ville is a small town of 77,000 but low and behold Sara spotted a girl she used to live with walking alongside these 2 americans. We swung 'round and ended up Dining and having a few drinks with them. Small world. Later that day I went to the 'Seeing hands' massage parlour. All the messeuse are blind and after their wages the money goes to help the blind in the region. I would love to say I enjoyed it but this blind lad had me in more pain than i can remember.
15 June Sara went to Bangkok and i rented the bike for another day and went off to a place called 'Stung Hau'. (The place was named after an American called 'Hau' in search of some value...... sorry bad joke) Its a fishing village that, according to the Lonely Planet, is the Home to the remains of the Communist Cambodian Navy fleet. Not being able to find the fleet and my Cambodian (Khmer) as rusty as the auld boats, i spotted a few white lads in a little eatery. I pulled the bike over, and with my overly small helmet sitting on my head like I was in the Vatican, i asked them if they spoke English, one of them replied "Nah, mate...we speak Australian!!!" needless to say after beers and food i was informed that "they towed away those ol' wrecks years ago". It was a great afternoon anyway. One of those guys owned a pub in town and invited me to join them that evening. i did and had another feed and a few beers. I got back to the guesthouse and another resident dragged me out again for a few beers and some pool. I had 7 beers that night and was pissed.
16 June With the head hanging off me I went off on the bike again to Ream national park, Nothing much to see. That evening With a couple of lads from the Guesthouse the 3 of us piled onto the bike (3 on a bike and sometimes more is quiet normal in these parts). We went down to the beach and went to one of the many beach bars. When we got back the bike wouldn't start. we pushed it up the road to a street lamp to see if we could get it going. A group of young lads gathered around to see if they could help. I let them at it and they said that the spark plug cap was missing. They happened to have one ( wonders will never cease) and fitted it. The bike started and i gave the lad $2. He wanted $8 and told him 'no' he took it out again and we started pushing the bike up the road. They came after us again and said $5. We agreed and when he had it done, i told him if he knows who did this, to tell them that 'today was a good day for you but a bad day for Cambodia'. He got the message.
19 June After a few days relaxing and doing nothing much I headed for a small town called Kampot. Famous for its Pepper and not much else, i continued on to a small seaside village called Kep 24 km away. I rented a bike and had a look around. During the French occupation of Cambodia, Kep was a popular spot with the french elite and the place was full of beautiful architecturally designed villas. Today they are in ruin but can still be viewed and they had the most fabulous beach front sites. Famous for its seafood, i dined at this restarant built on short stilts over the seashore. The tide ebbed and flowed underneath the floor & the food was devine.
20 June I stayed 1 night in Kep as loud nearby music and bed bugs kept me awake most of the night. I went back to Kampot and rented another bike and went off to see Bokor hill station, another french outpost, but it was closed due to road works.
21 June I headed off to the Vietnam border in Ha Tien by Tuk Tuk. The story to follow next post.
Friday, June 13, 2008
Bangkok to Cambodia
02 June On my last day in Bangkok, I went to see the grand palace complete with with long shirt and trousers and closed shoes.... I was baking. It was lovely and all that but im Budda'd out of it. Headed down the town to the financial district where all the money is and went on the sky train, the huge MBK shopping centre (A huge place that sells everything) which i had trouble finding my way out, i guess its designed that way. I went to the cinema to waste a bit of time and all the blockbuster are in English with Thai subtitles... i found my self roaring laughing at stuff and nobody else were getting the jokes.... must have thought i was a bit mad. Walked around the parks and saw a few embassies but it was time to leave.
03 June Finally left Bangkok and got the bus to Pattaya, a town on the coast of the Bight of Bangkok, a popular tourist area for locals and foreigners. The bus cost me E2 about 50 cent per hour. Met up with Francis Murray ( a freind from Galway) and we travelled around in a rental car taking in the coast and living it up. We met lots of great people from Galway, Milan, Glasgow, USA, Israel, England and Drogheda.
09 June After 5 days R&R I took the train to the Thai/Cambodian border. I caught the Bangkok to Cambodia train half way along its route from some small little town that had no English staff or signs. Fortunately as i was sitting at the station contemplating my next move along came this Buddist Monk wrapped in an orange wrap around thing.. i smiled at him and he sat down beside me... low and behold he spoke good english and sorted me out with my 80 cent ticket. he was heading in the same direction and we sat and talked the whole way. he told me not to kill anything including mosquitos. Ive murdered about 20 since. Got to the border town of Arunya Prathet at about 6.30pm was was told by the local motorcycle taxi touts that the border was closed and Id have to stay for the night. Smelling a rat i said 'take me to the border for look' it was about 4 km away. along the way he stopped at an agency where they told me that they knew someone that could organise to get me through for E30. I declined their kind offer and proceeded to the border and sailed though with no bother. On the other side, the Cambodian border town of Poipet was a complete dump. Taxi tout were all over us like bees on a lollipop, i joined forces with 3 indians and negotiated our passage by shared taxi for $35 USD in total for a 160 km journey to Siam Reap. We were being harrassed into agreeing to paying $100, but told them to Foxtrot Oscar. Well we finally escaped the onslaught and we got going. the road to poipet was beyond dreadful. take the worst road you can imagine and divide by 10, then take away the tarmac. we did this in a car and should be limited to 4WD. The road was daft, full of cars, bikles, trucks, buses, homemade car thingys with people hanging off them. After all that i checked into the same hotel as my indian freinds.... exhausted.
June 10 Again with the help of my new freinds we hired a 4 seater Tuk Tuk for $15 USD for the whole day and proceeded to take in the sights, Siam Reap is the home to Angkok Wat, the biggest and most famous Temple in the worls. It took all day to see them all and it was amazing. My gut again was brimmed up with temples. That night I went into town for some dinner and a look around. I was approched by this tout a young lady wanting me to eat at her familys outdoor street restaurant. I looked at her menu and laughed at the price, $3.50 for a main course, and quick as a flash out came the 2nd menu with the same meal for $1. i said ok and was put sitting beside this young lad. He was a local, 19, and had paid the same. I was delighted with myself. we got chatting and it was great to chat to an english speaking local that was not looking for money, sadly something most tourists don't experience as they are ever so freindly when the situation allows.
June 11 Took the bus to Phnon Penh (the nations capital) today. Its an unusual city as it was designed by the french with beautiful wide tree lined boulevards and lots of period french buildings. However as Cambodia is so poor, it has fallen in a state of disrepair and dont look good. Rubbish piled up on the street and the stench in some parts have people going around with surgical masks on. The few footpaths are full of stalls, car parked on them etc, so one finds oneself having to walk on the road with bike and car driving all aroun you. Quite mad but exhilarating at the same time. I had to laugh today as a truck was reversing up the road and the warning tone for large vehicle is usually a beep beep sound, here it was an electronic version of 'Santa Claus is coming to town' I hired a motorbike taxi for the whole day yesterday to take me around all the sights for $10. The driver was very good, spoke good english and told me his name was 'Jake Bullshit'.... i wasnt too sure about the 'Jake' bit. With him I saw the Infamous Killing fields where 1000,s of cambodian were murdered and buried by Pol Pots regime, the prision museum where they were tortured, and the grand palace and national Museum. I am staying at the 'TAT gusthouse' but should be renamed 'tatty guesthouse' but the place is poor and the room is cheap so what the hell. The owners are very nice and is family run with all the sons and daughteres working in it. After 10pm, the mother and father go about their business in their Pyjamas and the fathers office is bang in the middle of the dining/ sitting area. Heading to a seaside town of Soukaville today for a look around the coast of Cambodia.
03 June Finally left Bangkok and got the bus to Pattaya, a town on the coast of the Bight of Bangkok, a popular tourist area for locals and foreigners. The bus cost me E2 about 50 cent per hour. Met up with Francis Murray ( a freind from Galway) and we travelled around in a rental car taking in the coast and living it up. We met lots of great people from Galway, Milan, Glasgow, USA, Israel, England and Drogheda.
09 June After 5 days R&R I took the train to the Thai/Cambodian border. I caught the Bangkok to Cambodia train half way along its route from some small little town that had no English staff or signs. Fortunately as i was sitting at the station contemplating my next move along came this Buddist Monk wrapped in an orange wrap around thing.. i smiled at him and he sat down beside me... low and behold he spoke good english and sorted me out with my 80 cent ticket. he was heading in the same direction and we sat and talked the whole way. he told me not to kill anything including mosquitos. Ive murdered about 20 since. Got to the border town of Arunya Prathet at about 6.30pm was was told by the local motorcycle taxi touts that the border was closed and Id have to stay for the night. Smelling a rat i said 'take me to the border for look' it was about 4 km away. along the way he stopped at an agency where they told me that they knew someone that could organise to get me through for E30. I declined their kind offer and proceeded to the border and sailed though with no bother. On the other side, the Cambodian border town of Poipet was a complete dump. Taxi tout were all over us like bees on a lollipop, i joined forces with 3 indians and negotiated our passage by shared taxi for $35 USD in total for a 160 km journey to Siam Reap. We were being harrassed into agreeing to paying $100, but told them to Foxtrot Oscar. Well we finally escaped the onslaught and we got going. the road to poipet was beyond dreadful. take the worst road you can imagine and divide by 10, then take away the tarmac. we did this in a car and should be limited to 4WD. The road was daft, full of cars, bikles, trucks, buses, homemade car thingys with people hanging off them. After all that i checked into the same hotel as my indian freinds.... exhausted.
June 10 Again with the help of my new freinds we hired a 4 seater Tuk Tuk for $15 USD for the whole day and proceeded to take in the sights, Siam Reap is the home to Angkok Wat, the biggest and most famous Temple in the worls. It took all day to see them all and it was amazing. My gut again was brimmed up with temples. That night I went into town for some dinner and a look around. I was approched by this tout a young lady wanting me to eat at her familys outdoor street restaurant. I looked at her menu and laughed at the price, $3.50 for a main course, and quick as a flash out came the 2nd menu with the same meal for $1. i said ok and was put sitting beside this young lad. He was a local, 19, and had paid the same. I was delighted with myself. we got chatting and it was great to chat to an english speaking local that was not looking for money, sadly something most tourists don't experience as they are ever so freindly when the situation allows.
June 11 Took the bus to Phnon Penh (the nations capital) today. Its an unusual city as it was designed by the french with beautiful wide tree lined boulevards and lots of period french buildings. However as Cambodia is so poor, it has fallen in a state of disrepair and dont look good. Rubbish piled up on the street and the stench in some parts have people going around with surgical masks on. The few footpaths are full of stalls, car parked on them etc, so one finds oneself having to walk on the road with bike and car driving all aroun you. Quite mad but exhilarating at the same time. I had to laugh today as a truck was reversing up the road and the warning tone for large vehicle is usually a beep beep sound, here it was an electronic version of 'Santa Claus is coming to town' I hired a motorbike taxi for the whole day yesterday to take me around all the sights for $10. The driver was very good, spoke good english and told me his name was 'Jake Bullshit'.... i wasnt too sure about the 'Jake' bit. With him I saw the Infamous Killing fields where 1000,s of cambodian were murdered and buried by Pol Pots regime, the prision museum where they were tortured, and the grand palace and national Museum. I am staying at the 'TAT gusthouse' but should be renamed 'tatty guesthouse' but the place is poor and the room is cheap so what the hell. The owners are very nice and is family run with all the sons and daughteres working in it. After 10pm, the mother and father go about their business in their Pyjamas and the fathers office is bang in the middle of the dining/ sitting area. Heading to a seaside town of Soukaville today for a look around the coast of Cambodia.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Bangkok
Well, I arived here safe and sound at 7am and was checked into my hotel at 8am. The journey was great as i had booked a sleeper seat which miraculously turned into a bed at 9pm. everybody was told to go to sleep and breakfast was at 6am. no bother i was wrecked. on the journey i was put sitting opposite an elderly thai lady who spoke no english. She avoided eye contact even though my head was 3 feet from hers. I decided i conduct an experiment and i said in my best thai 'Saw wa dee khap'"which means 'hello, nice to meet you' well, she called over her grandson to translate and we were chatting for hours. she wanted to know all about ireland, my travels and how much money westerners made. anyway got to bangkok, had a kip for a few hours and decided to explore. I headed for the grand palace and despite being misled and lied to by all kinds of sheisters got there a couple of hours later (only 10 mins down the road). I was refused entry as i was not wearing long trousers and had flip flops on. They tried to get me to take a tuk tuk back to my hotel to change and take a tour in the process. no thanks. I saw a whole heap of buddas, temples, even one lying down that was 46 meteres long. Other site was the infamous Kho san road, ate great food from street vendors for less than E2. Had a 30 min foot massage for E2.40 after all my walking. funny thing its so cheap to a point you start to feel guiilty but at the same time i feel annoyed when trying chancing there arm to swindle you out of a euro. Applied for my vietnamese visa today and should have that wednesday morning.
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